Baldwins Station

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Joined 10 years ago

Historic Sykesville's Victorian train depot tracks a second life as a special-occasion restaurant.. The Scene
Olive wainscot on beige walls embellished with some masculine floral stenciling harkens back to the small formal dining room's previous use as a gentleman's waiting area. A larger eating space--one freight room circa 1884--makes the most of raw brick walls, oversized doors and a remarkably high ceiling. The ultra-quaint antique bar sandwiched between these two halls will be easily missed by latecomers, so arrive early for an aperitif instead.

The Food
With seasonal entrees like butterscotch salmon and cinnamon-dusted duck, the menu gives the appearance of adventurousness. But what reads as bold, tastes somewhat bland. More straightforward dishes, like the rack of lamb or even the thick, pungent mushroom bisque appetizer, effectively forgo subtlety for solidity. Epicureans looking for a sublimely light touch should skip right to dessert: The pastries are uniformly enlightening; rich options like a white chocolate cup of sponge cake and berries have weight without feeling heavy.